Prepare for Your Sauna

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Phase 1: The Footprint & Flow

A seamless installation begins with a well-prepared site. To ensure your sauna performs perfectly and lasts a lifetime, please verify that your chosen location meets these two essential space requirements:

The 1.5ft Buffer

Ensure a minimum 18-inch clearance around the entire sauna for assembly, band tensioning, and future wood maintenance.

The Footprint & Height

Prepare a clear zone of 10'x11' (for 8ft models) or 10'x13' (for 10ft models), with at least 10ft of vertical headspace for heat and chimney safety.

Phase 2: The Foundation: Building a Stable Base

A perfectly level foundation is the secret to a long-lasting sauna. An uneven surface can cause the wood to shift or the door to misalign. Choose one of these four proven setups:

Concrete & Stone: The gold standard for a premium, rock-solid, and perfectly level finish.

Decks: Wood or composite decks work great; just ensure the joists are reinforced at the contact points.

Crushed Gravel: A natural look with superior drainage—aim for 6 inches of compacted 3/4" minus.

Paver Support: If building on grass or soil, you must use concrete pavers under the cradles to prevent sinking.

Phase 3: Powering the Heat (Electric Models)

A professional setup is essential for both performance and aesthetics. Our high-performance 9kW heaters require a dedicated 50 Amp breaker with a 240V hardwired connection installed by a licensed electrician.

For the cleanest visual result, we recommend having your electrician run the power lines after the sauna is fully assembled; this allows the conduit to enter the unit precisely at the heater’s location, keeping your exterior profile sleek and free of exposed wiring.

Phase 4: The Fire Safety Zone (Wood-Fired Models)

For the traditionalist using a wood-burning stove, safety is the ultimate priority.

Phase 1: The Footprint & Flow

Phase 2: The Foundation: Building a Stable Base

Concrete & Stone: The gold standard for a premium, rock-solid, and perfectly level finish.

Decks: Wood or composite decks work great; just ensure the joists are reinforced at the contact points.

Crushed Gravel: A natural look with superior drainage—aim for 6 inches of compacted 3/4" minus.

Paver Support: If building on grass or soil, you must use concrete pavers under the cradles to prevent sinking.

Phase 3: Powering the Heat (Electric Models)

Phase 4: The Fire Safety Zone (Wood-Fired Models)

The 10-Foot Rule: Ensure there are no flammable materials (branches, power lines, or rooflines) within a 10-foot radius above the chimney.

Side Clearances: Keep a 3-foot vertical buffer below the chimney level and a 10-foot horizontal distance from fences or structures.

Compliance: Check with your local building department; some areas require a simple mechanical permit for wood-burning appliances.

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